Canadian Geographic Magazine
Into the Lair of the White Bear
March 2008
by Deborah Campbell

"Though I grew up next to the second- and third-growth woodlands of southern British Columbia, I was unaware that there are still places like this, where hundreds of dolphins race our ship over the course of half an hour one morning, leaping and diving like synchronized swimmers. It occurs to me that I have become an urbanite, as transformed in my vision of the world as the world itself has been transformed by my culture's vision for it.

We are about as far off the grid as is possible in the modern world. Our bathing takes place at natural hot springs, our only communication is with the creatures we encounter, and every attempt is made to minimize our impact on a place threatened from all sides by the reality from which we've come: logging, mining, big-game sport hunting, salmon farming and mounting pressure to permit oil and gas exploration, as well as rising tanker traffic as the North melts...."

Explore Magazine
The Canadian Classics: 25 Trips You Must Do
March/April 2008
by Jackie Davis

"Canada has so many great adventure tours that it's hard to know where to go when vacation time rolls around.... To help you decide,, we've ranked what, in our humble opinion at least, are the 25 best guided trips this country has to offer. So read on and start packing."

SAIL THE GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST on the Maple Leaf
Ranked 95/100 for wildlife, 90/100 for scenery and 90/100 for natural and cultural interpretation.

Natural Traveler
Alaska by Tall Ship
September 2007
by John Ostdick

"The sunny day is producing quite a show, as large sections of the glacier peal off in thunderous pieces. The air is icily crisp, pristine yet almost chewable. A large section of a sidewall collapses, sending a huge wave our way, providing quite a roller-coaster ride.

On the way back to the Maple Leaf, we appropriate some sparkling ice, which we chop up once back onboard. Captain Smith pours some heady scotch over the ancient but pure ice and we toast our good fortune. We move back down Endicott, and drop anchor just outside its mouth in Wood Spit Bay. "

The Australian
West and Wild
July 2007
by Suzanne Morphet

"More than anything, perhaps, we are impressed with the sheer size of the place. Vivien Frow from Qualicum Beach said it was the first time she'd seen the Gulf Islands from anything smaller than a B.C. ferry.

'You look at a map and it all looks so squashed up and tiny, but here ... it makes you realize how big the world is, when we see how big, how long the distances are between these islands."

The last island we visited was Russell Island, just across from Saltspring's Fulford Harbour. ... This island, as well as Saltspring, Portland and Coal, were homesteaded in teh 1800s by Kanakas -- people from Hawaii. They came to work on tall ships owned by the Hudson Bay Company and many of them settled here after they finished their contracts.

As we unfurled the sails in a light spring breeze and took in the beauty all around us, we could understand their reasons for staying."

Victoria Times Colonist
Small Is Beautiful
May 2007
by Suzanne Morphet

"Until this voyage, Cabbage and Tumbo isalnds were just names on a map. Now we know them to be two jewels of the new Gulf Islands National Park Reserve.

We hiked along a deer trail through a forest of arbutus, Douglas fir and Garry oak trees on Tumbo's southern bluff and breathed in the sweet scent of a forest in spring. Later, on Cabbage Island, we explored marine life at low tide, spotted a green sea anemone waving its tentacles and looked for the bright orange bills of the Black Oystercatchers that like to nest on rocky islets nearby."

British Columbia Magazine
Gulf Islands Scrimp or Splurge
Spring 2007
by Meghan Strothers

"Ship naturalists reveal remote nature spots inaccessible to ferries; stellar sea lions on islets; Coast Salish shell middens near Galiano; rare coastal Garry oak and arbutus ecosystems.

Waves lull guests to sleep...."

Cowboys & Indians Magazine
Alaska Tall Ship Adventure Exploring the northwest coast on a 12-day cruise aboard the MAPLE LEAF
April 2007
by John Ostdick

"My journey into Northwest Coast magic on the 92-foot, five-sail schooner starts about 500 miles north of Vancouver on a cool, damp day....

Although a couple of orcas make a brief appearance, humpback whales entertain us regulary in these waters. The gnarly giants, weighing in at 20 to 30 tons and stretching out to lengths of 50 feet, are mesmerizing. Of all the large whale species, they tend to be the most animated and acrobatic."

Westworld Alberta
The Great Bear Rainforest

Summer 2006
by Kerry Banks

"A tingle of expectation, mixed with fear, crawls up my spine. It is approaching sundown and we are sneaking up on a grizzly. I can see him clearly through my binoculars, sitting at the mouth of the estuary, digging in the mud. The bear isn't aware of our presence, and we want to keep it that way. About 100 metres from shore, we kill the motors on our twin Zodiacs and glide forward into a backdrop of sheer black citadels. No one speaks.

A silence settles over us - almost as thick as the pong of rotting salmon permeating the inlet. Everything feels damp and feral. The grizzly's immense size and distinctive colouring become apparent as we float nearer. His coat is a blend of dark brown and silver, and he has a massive hump of muscle between his shoulder blades. His body is as big as a moving van."

Focus Magazine
Travels with Cecil and the oolichan
June 2006
by Briony Penn

"In the centre of the largest protected intact rainforest watershed in the world is a jar of sugar. It's not the first thing you notice in a place the size of New Brunswick that looks like a Viewmaster show, but it is one of the little things that helps the whole ecosystem function smoothly.

The sugar sits on the shelf of a small cabin that belongs to Cecil Paul, hereditary chief of the Killer Whale Clan of the Henaaksiala from the Kitlope Valley. He stores it there for when he comes up twice a year to harvest oolichan and salmon. He needs three spoonfuls of sugar in his coffee to get him going in the morning, and keeping Cecil going is important because he is as much a part of the Kitlope as the oolichan, salmon, grizzlies and mountain goats.

It is also important because he is a guiding spirit behind the Haisla/Henaaksiala nations’ unprecedented success. In 1994 they persuaded industrial interests to relinquish their timber leases over 317,000 hectares with no compensation. And this summer they were the first successful First Nation to convince a museum to relinquish a totem pole taken over 77 years ago by Swedish collectors."

Vancouver Sun
To See The World Through Others’ Eyes A trip up the Kitlope River with an elder of the Xanaksiyala is a step into the realm of a culture of the rainforest
February 2006
by Stephen Gauer

"The Kitlope filled me with a sense of mystery and awe, appreciation and happiness, even a sense of homecoming. Perhaps some of these feelings are so ancient we don't have words for them; they express a connection to the land that we severed a long time ago and can never restore. Paul still has that connection, and can express it. Is that why we think he's wise?"

Going Places and Westways Magazine
Tall Tales: Whales and Wolves and Bears - Oh, My
February 2006

"Suddenly in our sight across the river is a white bear. True to its name it seems to appear like a spirit. It raises its nose and catches our scent.

The bear, aware of us, continues to move to the river.We are to stay still, even if it crosses to the bank where we sit. I don't feel in peril although I’m as close as I’d like to be. The bear wades into the river, plucks a salmon from the water and disappears into the forest. I’m not sure how long the encounter has lasted. Tears flow.

Back in the Zodiacs we turn to see more bears-a spirit bear following a black bear across a log on shore.When someone points out the whales, I feel about to burst. But there’s more to look forward to. Tomorrow, we sail."

Seattle Times
Great Bear Rainforest: Where the wild things are
February 2006

"A swath of British Columbia’s coast, a wildlife-rich tapestry of forests, fjords and wave-pounded islands, is being protected as parkland. Just don’t expect to roll up in your RV to see what’s called the Great Bear Rainforest....

"[Maple Leaf] owner and ship’s captain Kevin Smith grew up sailing the B.C. coast, and has made it his life’s work and pleasure. He pilots the Maple Leaf, a classic 92-foot schooner, carrying nine passengers at a time, and for years was part of an advisory committee on the area’s future. Now, says Smith, the coast he loves will be better preserved....

"Although small-boat tour operators can’t guarantee wildlife sightings, Smith remembers one magical day aboard the Maple Leaf. The crew and guests awoke at their anchorage to see a pack of wolves on shore, feasting on spawning salmon. After sailing away, humpback whales surrounded the ship, swimming circles around it. And on the shore of Princess Royal Island, a young Kermode, or spirit bear, gamboled along the beach, a white-furred rarity in the wilderness."

Pacific Yachting Magazine
Triangle Island
December 2005

"Albatross to port!" From the wheel of the 92-foot schooner Maple Leaf, Kevin Smith’s voice carries on 25 knots of wind. I brace into the railing and scan the stark vista. Sea and sky is all I see, the home of the pelagic albatross. Then I spot it tucked in a trough: an albatross with a 10-foot wingspan, gliding effortlessly across the surface.

"I, too, feel the freedom of the albatross as we sail out in the open Pacific...."

Whale Watching in Canada
by the Whale and Dolpin Conservation Society and the Canadian Tourism Commission - German Edition
October 2005

"Ausgesprochen lohnend ist ein Besuch im Nordwesten von British Columbia und in Haida Gwaii, dem angestammten wie auch aktuellen Heimatland des First Nation-Volkes der Haida. Hier erwartet Sie die gesamte Vielfalt der Wale und Delfine von BC, die Sie auf Beobachtungstouren mit dem Boot erleben koennen. Bei Maple Leaf Adventures verbringen Sie einige Tage auf dem 28 m langen, klassichen Schoner Maple Leaf. Zu Destinationen zaehlen im April und Mai die Festlandkueste des mittleren und noerdlichen BC sowie Haida Gwaii, im Juni gehen die Fahrten bis ins suedoestliche Alaska. Die Touren dauern meist 5 bis 11 Tage und werden von erfarhenen Naturfuehrern und of auch von Forschern begleitet."

Explore Magazine
The Life List: 100 Things You Have To Do Out There
July/August 2005

"Ten per cent of the black bears in B.C.’s Great Bear Rainforest, the world’s largest intact coastal temperate rain forest, are pure white. Freakishly white. A recessive gene causes the variation, which is believed to be a genetic throwback to an earlier age. The bears, known as Kermode or Spirit Bears, are one of the world’s rarest animals and can only be found on Princess Royal Island and a handful of other areas in the rain forest. Several tour companies offer sailing trips through Great Bear with the hopes of spotting one of these ursine oddities.oddities. For more info: Maple Leaf Adventures (www.mapleleafadventures.com)."

National Geographic Traveler
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve & Haida Heritage Site Listed #1 National Park in North America
June 2005

(not specifically about Maple Leaf Adventures)
"Gwaii Haanas might seem to rate its excellent 88 due simply to light traffic: Fewer than 3,000 visitors a year make it to the park.... But there’s more: a unique partnership between Parks Canada and the native Haida people. "High cultural integrity," says one panelist. "Haida are very involved in park management. Residents display a real stewardship ethic."Authenticity, too: "Archaeological and historic artifacts are left to their natural processes as per Haida tradition, which surprises visitors who expect ‘preservation.’" "Beautiful and intact. A great model for other regions."

Explore Magazine
Sail on the Wild Side
June 2005

"There’s a very good reason to make sure your next big adventure takes place on a tall ship....The reason you want to be on a schooner -- specifically, the Maple Leaf, which happens to be British Columbia’s oldest tall ship -- is because it can take you to places where the cruise ships, with their buffets, casinos and industrial tubs of Ben Gay, simply aren’t allowed."

Outside Magazine
Alaska's Secret Island Realm
April 2004

"On the map it’s a frayed green fringe punctuated by toothy peaks and massive glaciers that give way to the Alexander Archipelago, a dense network of some 1,100 islands blanketed with towering Sitka spruce and cedar. Stretching 400 miles north to south, from Glacier Bay to Misty Fjords, and about 100 miles across, Southeast encompasses the 16.8-million-acre Tongass National Forest-the core of the world’s largest temperate rainforest-and enough bears, whales, otters, eagles, and salmon to make you feel like you’ve been genetically shortchanged for not being born with fur, blubber, or feathers."

Frommer's Canada Guidebook
The Best Travel Experiences
The Trips of a Lifetime
*** "Must See" (top rating)

"If you look at a map of British Columbia, you’ll see, about halfway up the west coast, an incredibly convoluted region of mountains, fjords, bays, channels, rivers and inlets. There are next to no roads here -- the geography’s too intense. Thanks to that isolation, this is also one of the last places in the world where grizzly bears are still found in large numbers, not to mention salmon, large trees, killer whales, otters and porpoises. But to get there, you’ll need a boat. And if you have to take a boat, why not take a 100-year-old fully rigged 28m (92-ft.) sailing schooner? The owner is extremely knowledgeable and normally brings along a trained naturalist to explain the fauna (especially the whales, dolphins and grizzlies).... All trips include gourmet meals (more than you could ever eat) and comfortable but not luxuriuous accomodation aboard the beautiful schooner Maple Leaf."

Westworld Magazine
In the Lair of the Great Bear
4 Great Escapes
Summer 2004

"Dawn breaksover another anchorage: Khutze Inlet, one of the pristine treasures saved by the 2001 accord. I find myself alone on deck, serenaded by the creaking of the masts in the morning breeze and the piercing cry of the gulls. The rain has stopped and sunlight glitters on the last of the cliffside waterfalls, lighting them up like shimmering diamonds. The reflection of the mountains in the black, still water creates a mirror image of reality: up becomes down. Mist moves around me with startling speed, swirling into fantastic shapes. With disbelieving eyes, I watch a frothy slab of white surge across the bay like the prow of a ghost ship. It is a breathtaking scene and it inspires contrary emotions: humility and pride. Never have I felt so small in the grand scheme of things, nor so privileged. At this moment in time I am the only human in the world with this ethereal vista."

Adventurous Magazine
San Diego, USA
Aboard the Maple Leaf in May
Haida Gwaii - Queen Charlotte Islands
Summer 2004

"This was one of the best trips I have ever been on. I haven’t met an American yet who knows where the Queen Charlotte Islands are. Just as well becuase if you’re looking for a place to run away to, here’s where to go. ...Day 2 - A whale of a day! Spend most of the afternoon among big pods of Humpbacks, at least 20, and got close. Flip flopping and breaching, spewing and spouting. Late lunch of pasta with cilantro and pepper, eggs and cashews, and a fine tossed salad. 17:30 More whales! Twenty-five surrounded the ship. Off went the engines - much better than seaworld.... The brochure reads 'Our trips are accompanied by expert naturalists and a gourmet chef,’ and believe me, they’re not exaggerating."

Pacific Yachting Magazine
Chartering: Haida Gwaii
So much more than just a sightseeing tour
Summer 2004

"We’re about to dig into lunch up on deck when we hear the powerful rush of exhaled whale breath. Humpback whales are surfacing nearby. The soup spoon is midway to my mouth when the upwind spume of air finally wafts our way, spritzing the cluster of humans on deck with a moist, fishy assualt on the senses. This would be one of many encounters with a host of creatures from sea cucumbers to dolphins and whales. On our first full day it’s already clear that this sailing vacation is more than a nose-pressed-against-the-glass sight-seeing cruise. By the end of the nine-day trip through the archipelago known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, or Haida Gwaii, we will have deeply inhaled all of its mystique."

Chicago Tribune
A Different Way to Cruise
Sailing offers a more laid-back way to go
April 2004

"Pack lightly and bring your enthusiasm for a true 5- to 12-day adventure. The ship sails along the Pacific Northwest coast around Alaska and British Columbia, including remote places such as the Great Bear Rainforest and Queen Charlotte Islands....As for food, it's prepared by a gourmet chef who uses garden-fresh produce and seafood caught by commercial fishermen. Desserts are definitely worth every calorie. Who needs onboard entertainment when you have humpback whales romping under the bowsprit and black-and-orange puffins to watch? Expert naturalists provide the narrative, nature provides the show. You can even learn to sail."

Explore Magazine
The Naked Truth About the Great Bear
Summer 2003

"We entered through a flock of Bonaparte’s gulls, birds rising and falling like a fog tugged by wind. Beyond them, the high tide had buttonholed the river, which had flooded its banks to run deep through the forest. Our rubber raft puttered into a cedar grove, and, looking down, I could see salmon in the huckleberry bushes, in the limbs of trees, salmon drifting through clusters of fairy-ring mushrooms.

In the branches above us, dozens of bald eagles. Slipping from the bank, an otter. A herd of seals, heads bobbing, seven of them crowded on a deadhead log. They stared with gathered eyebrows. Had we come to spoil the party? Had we come to disturb so perfect a world that the seals no longer ate whole fish, but only individual bites out of passing salmon? And as the valley narrowed, the water grew thick with salmon, corpuscular with salmon, until fish and water seemed an even mix and both were a tumbling river. In the shallows we could see the fish at rest, their skins marked with holes and half-moons of missing flesh, or the parallel stripes of swatting claws. Soon enough we would see the bears-four black bears, big boars and sows-strolling in sedge meadows the colour of lemongrass.

Where have I ever seen anything like this? The only answers came from the virtual world: Imax documentaries; Dr. Seuss; reruns of Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom, with Marlin Perkins wearing a too-tight suit on the plains of the Serengeti. Like almost everyone today, I'm completely unaccustomed to this supersized natural world, to the kind of earthly abundance that seems barely believable in the journals of the early explorers. (The buffalo filled the horizons; the passenger pigeons blocked out the sun; the cod were so thick you could walk on the water like Jesus of Newfoundland.) Suddenly I knew the stories might be true."